Too Much Rain

2014 has been a particularly wet year thus far, and the cumulative effects of this moisture are starting to show up. If given the choice of having to deal with either wet or dry weather conditions, I would choose dry conditions every single time. Dry conditions allow us to supplement moisture with irrigation, whereas our ability to remedy wet conditions is extremely limited.

To allow the plant to properly perform its metabolic functions, the soil must be able to breath. Saturated soils do not have any capacity to exchange the gasses used or produced by the plants metabolic processes. Saturated soils can result in decreased levels of O2, which is the gas that plays a role in hundreds of metabolic processes. In addition, a buildup of toxic compounds such as sulfides and CO2 have been reported in saturated soils.

Denitrification is a symptom of saturated soils which we have observed on the golf course this year. Denitrification is a process that turns nitrate into nitrogen dioxide and dinitrogen gasses that are unavailable to the plant. This process is catalyzed by microbes that function in low soil oxygen environments.

Suspected denitrification and low soil oxygen symptoms

Here you can see the exact path the water takes as it drains.

The two photos above show the same areas after a few days of dry, cool weather and an application of a soluble fertilizer.

Saturated soils usually result in higher summertime soil temperatures. Although wet soils may take longer to heat up due to water’s higher specific heat they also take much longer to cool down due to water’s higher heat capacity. This can result in a sustained soil temperature above preferred  levels for optimal turf health.

Another issue we encounter with an abundance of moisture is disease. Wet and warm weather conditions create a prime environment for most turfgrass diseases. An ill-timed rain event could force an unplanned fungicide application, costing the golf course tens of thousands of dollars.

An additional nuisance effect of all the rain has been the need to keep golfers on the cart paths. At this point, soils are so saturated that even small amounts of precipitation have forced us to employ cart restrictions. I understand that this is an inconvenience and can really slow down play, but because of all the things I have touched on above, the plant is in a weakened state and is less capable of handling traffic stress. It is important to keep all carts off the turf until the surface has dried out.

If water is being displaced by the cart, it's still too wet.

An excellent question I was asked last weekend was "Why are we on paths and another particular course is not?" There are a number of factors to deal with in this situation. Moisture totals from storms can vary greatly from place to place. We have had storms this year that have dropped 7" in some parts of town, and “only” 2" in other parts of town. We have had situations in the past where one side of the course had significant rain totals and the other half did not. In this case, the course we were being compared to was 26 miles from our location and received 0.12" of moisture vs. our 0.50". The difference between cart restrictions and no restrictions could be as small as a couple tenths of an inch so these seemingly minute differences are important.

Also,  keep in mind that all golf courses have different soil types, topography, and drainage systems, which influence their ability to handle water. Some courses topdress fairways, which allows the water to percolate through the profile and away from the surface faster. And, some courses don't have cart paths, so cart restrictions aren't an option. I can promise you that cart restriction decisions are my least favorite decision to make. I thank you for your patience throughout this wet season and hope it starts to dry up a little bit.



DON'T START LAWN SERVICES YET!

I have seen a number of people mowing, power raking, fertilizing, and applying pre-emergent products to home lawns. Performing any of these practices at this time is not only a waste of time and money, but could also be detrimental to your lawn.

I don't suggest inflicting any mechanical damage to the plant until it has regained some recuperative ability. Wait until you see significant green up or vertical growth. In fact, this might be the year to skip power raking and aerification altogether. The turf will need to rely more heavily on carbohydrate reserves this year to recover from the harsh winter. These mechanical/cultivation practices will only drain this energy reserve even further. The less stress you can put on your turf this spring the better it will hold up through summer.

As for fertilizer applications, WAIT! Nutrients contained in fertilizer products are not directly available to the plant and most need multiple factors to initiate the conversion of these nutrients to plant available forms. These factors are warmth, moisture, and/or microbial activity and we have none of those in our favor right now. A good rule of thumb is to let the soil temperatures to get to 55 degrees. At the course we are finding soil temperatures in the 40's.

Wait on pre-emerge product applications as well. We don't know what the health of the turf is going to be coming out of winter and you may have to over-seed some areas. A pre-emergent application could really hamper your abilities to reseed.

If you want to do something, fire up your irrigation and lightly water. This will help warm your soil and break turf dormancy. There is some rain and warmth in the forecast so be patient. Good decisions now will pay dividends in the future.

Late Summer Heat and Drought Tough on Cool-Season Grasses

Late Summer Heat and Drought Tough on Cool-Season Grasses

In spite of a relatively cool summer, the extended heat and drought over the next week or more may take a toll on cool-season grasses. These grasses are at their weakest point in the year with their lowest energy reserves, and thus their lowest tolerance to stresses like heat, drought, and pests. Minor disease infection with summer patch in Kentucky bluegrass or gray leaf spot in perennial ryegrass, minimal grub feeding in almost all grasses, or traffic in excess or at the hottest part of the day can cause significant damage. The good news is that day lengths are becoming shorter and the heat should not extend for too long into September.

Considerations for turf health in late August heat:

•  On greens, consider skipping a day of mowing leaning instead to rolling. This maintains maximum photosynthetic area without sacrificing green speed.
• Hold off on any fertilization until temperatures cool in September.
• If the roots are very shallow, irrigate frequently and wet the soil only to the depth of rooting. This flies in the face of the “deep and infrequent” irrigation we normally recommend, but we may be soon be into damage control rather than sound turf management
• Water early in the morning on other turf areas to limit disease pressure as much as possible
• Syringe Poa annua in the afternoon to cool it slightly and increase its chances for survival
• Preventative fungicide applications are recommended for high value areas, especially with high Poa annua or perennial ryegrass populations. Brown patch, pythium and gray leaf spot are the primary target disease right now.
• White grub applications should already be applied but rescue applications with Dylox™ may be needed.
• Though crabgrass and yellow nutsedge are flourishing, they are at the end of their life cycle and applications are not needed. Almost any herbicide can cause phytotoxicity once temperatures are >85F so avoid applications.
• Limit topdressing, grooming, verticutting, dethatching or aerification until the weather moderates. If aerification is needed on greens, consider narrow, solid tines.
• Minimize and restrict traffic where possible and change traffic patterns frequently.
• If areas were seeded in the last two weeks, fungicides targeted for pythium/rhizoctonia should be applied to help protect the seedlings.

Zac Reicher, Professor of Turfgrass Science, zreicher2@unl.edu

Extension is a Division of the Institute of Agriculture and Natural Resources at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln cooperating with the Counties and the United States Department of Agriculture.
University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension education programs abide with the nondiscrimination policies of the University of Nebraska-Lincoln and the United States Department of Agriculture.

How the Cold Spring Sets Us Back



I am sure you are keenly aware that this spring's weather has been the polar opposite of last year. Cool, wet temperatures have kept our soils saturated and our soil temps well below average. The moisture is a welcome nuisance as it helps restore soil moisture lost during last year's drought, but the low temperatures are not doing us any favors.

We need to seed, and seeding requires a few things to ensure germination: seed-soil contact, moisture, and adequate soil temperatures (50-55 degrees). Without one or more of these requirements, the germination becomes inconsistent at best. Our soil temperatures at 3" were 57.6 degrees as of March 6th last year. We have yet to reach that temperature this year, which puts us 44 days behind last year. Considering the germination period for Ryegrass is five days, we could have had seedlings well on their way to maturity by this time last year.

Golf course superintendents and home owners alike have an uphill battle this year when it comes to repairing turf damage caused by last year's heat and drought. Be patient. The soil will eventually warm and, with any luck, we will have time to get grass out of the ground and mature before the stresses of summer arrive.

Below you will find an article published by the University of Nebraska on this very topic.

When will turfgrass seed germinate this spring (if ever)?
April 17, 2013

Though some of the dormant and winter seedings are germinating in the warmest of areas, spring temperatures are currently averaging two to eight degrees Fahrenheit lower than normal across Nebraska (Figure 1) and the northern Great Plains. Table 1 lists the optimum germination temperatures used in germination testing, but germination will begin at temperatures lower than listed. Temperatures below optimum will slow germination and also development of seedlings. Will seeds eventually germinate and seedlings develop? The answer is a resounding “Yes”, and germination is often seen when soil temperatures near the seed (surface) consistently rise to 50F during the day. Unfortunately, the later these seeds germinate and the slower they mature, the less able the young plants will be to withstand summer stress. Thus irrigation and pesticide use will likely be needed throughout the summer. Another point of caution is herbicide applications may have to be delayed even beyond the label recommendations if the label recommendations are based on days after seeding or potentially days after emergence.

Figure 1. Departure from normal temperature 3/17/2013 to 4/15/2013

(Courtesy of High Plains Regional Climate Center)

Table 1. Optimum temperatures for seed germination.

Turfgrass Species                          Optimum temperatures for seed germination*Creeping bentgrass                         59-86
Annual bluegrass                            68-86
Kentucky bluegrass                        59-86
Tall fescue                                      68-86
Perennial ryegrass                           68-86
Buffalograss                                    68-95

*Temperatures separated by a dash indicate an alternation of temperatures. The first number is for approximately 16 hr and the second for approximately 8 hr, which would translate into cooler temperatures in the 16 hours of evening through morning followed by the 8 hours in the heat of the day. Adapted from Beard’s Turfgrass Science and Culture.

Zac Reicher, Professor, Turfgrass Science, zreicher2@unl.edu

Spring 2013

Omaha caught a few days of favorable weather in the past week and we were able to get the entire course mowed at least once. For the most part, the course looks like it is in good shape. We experienced a fairly good green up over the weekend and expect this to continue. We still need some warmer days to get the soil temperatures rising before the course really wakes up and we can assess how we overwintered. Unfortunately, it doesn't look like this week's weather will be of much help in that department. The forecasted moisture will be great, but the temperatures will keep the turf in a holding pattern.

As the fairways continue to green up, you will notice some patchy areas of straw-colored turf. This is dead Poa Annua and it's death is by design. The battle with Poa is an ongoing one. Each fall we spray a herbicide to help reduce its population, but the effectiveness of the application cannot be judged until the spring. This year it appears that we had a pretty good kill. As soon as the course dries up next week, will begin to overseed the areas with Ryegrass. The germination rate of Rye is very quick, so the damaged areas should recover quickly

Poa Control In Fairways

As a result of this years normal freeze/thaw cycle, you may notice that some bunker liners and staples have been forced to the surface of the bunkers. Repairing this is a priority and will be taken care of ASAP. Repairing this properly and in a clean fashion is important because we do not want to contaminate any sand during repair. Please keep an eye out for these areas when you are hitting your bunker shots.

Bunker Liner Migration

We recently pulled the covers from the greens on Gray Hawk and were very pleased with what we found. The greens seemed to have continued to fill in late into the fall and started up early this spring. They are on track for an opening day of June 1st. 

\

#7 Gray Hawk Green Post Cover Removal

#9 Gray Hawk Green Post Cover Removal

Our main focus going forward will be interseeding fairways, roughs, and tees. We will also dial in our nutritional plan to help the turf recover from last year's stresses and get ready for this years aerification. It is really important that the plant be healthy and full of vigor at the time of aerification to help speed recovery.

As I mentioned above, I think we overwintered well and, with some cooperation from the weather, the course should really come to life in the next 10-14 days.

Why Can't We Play?

It is that time of year where we are put in the unenviable postition of deciding when to open the course for play. Unlike recent years, Mother Nature has not been very cooperative. Our average high for this week in 2012 was 79.7 degrees, compared to 42.1 degrees this year. Temperatures are forecasted to stay low and there is a chance for snow later this week. We will take all the moisture we can get, but like you, I am eager to get the season started. 

I have posted an excerpt from a USGA article below regarding the effects of winter play. I think it will help explain the position this year's weather has put us in. It should also explain what goes into the decision-making process in regards to allowing play. As always, thanks for your interest in what we do as well as your patience. 

Excerpted from "Politics, Religion, and Winter Play on Greens," James T. Snow
http://www.usga.org/course_care/articles/other/winter_play/Politics-Religion-and-Winter-Play-on-Greens/
Courtesy of the USGA

Repercussions of Winter Play
It is not hard to understand why many golfers are sometimes skeptical about claims concerning the negative effects of winter play, because to them the turf on greens that have been played throughout the winter usually appears the same as the turf on greens that have been closed. The effects of winter traffic, however, need not be obvious and dramatic to have significant and long-lasting repercussions.

Direct wear injury
Thinning of the turf due to direct wear injury is an obvious and important result of winter traffic. Unlike during the growing season, when turf is able to regenerate new leaves and stems to replace injured tissue daily, winter weather completely halts turf growth; the grass is continually thinned throughout the winter in direct proportion to the amount of traffic. This thinning of the turf canopy can, and often does, encourage the establishment of such weeds as Poa annua, crabgrass, goosegrass, moss, algae, pearlwort, spurge, and other weed pests during the spring and summer. True enough, weeds can indeed be a problem on greens that aren't subjected to winter play, but winter traffic causes them to be just that much more abundant and difficult to control.

Soil compaction
Soil compaction is a more subtle and perhaps more important consequence of winter traffic. Because of the cold winter temperatures and lack of active turf growth, the loss of excess soil moisture through evaporation and transpiration is greatly reduced. In addition, frozen sub-surface soils may completely block the movement of excess moisture through the soil profile. During the summer, a very heavy rainfall often creates soil conditions that warrant closing the course for a day or two until the excess moisture is eliminated by the way of evaporation, transpiration, and downward percolation through the soil profile. Because these moisture losses are often non-functional during the winter, saturated soil conditions can persist for weeks or longer. Yet the golfers who can appreciate the need to close the course during the summer are sometimes completely unsympathetic to the same conditions and concerns during the winter.

The effects of soil compaction on the health and playability of the turf are insidious at any time, but because wet soils are especially prone to compaction, the likelihood of traffic causing the collapse of good soil structure is of constant concern during the winter. As soil particles are compacted and pushed closer and closer together, the pore space that facilitates drainage and root growth during summer is gradually lost. As the season finally commences, golfers often complain the these compacted greens are hard. From an agronomic standpoint, turf begins the season in a weakened state, predisposed to a host of summer problems. In addition to the potential for weed encroachment, the turf on greens played during winter tends to wilt more readily during hot weather, and often is more susceptible to a wide array of primary and secondary disease organisms. 

Effects on playability 
With the loss of turf density from direct wear injury and the loss of turf vigor caused by soil compaction, greens played during winter tend to be hard, slow, and bumpy, and they are slower to develop during the spring, compared to greens that are not subjected to winter traffic. Footprinting is often a problem, and golfers tend to complain about the lack of trueness even after several topdressings in the spring. Finally, the effects of compaction on the health of the turf can last to a certain extent for much of the season, making it difficult or impossible to keep the greens as closely cut and intensively groomed as some golfers might desire.

Many winter golfers have heard these arguments before and have dismissed them as being ravings of overprotective golf course superintendents and turfgrass scientists. A favorite response is, "I pay plenty to play golf at this club, and I'm going to use the regular greens during the winter. That's why we pay the superintendent - to fix up the greens in time for spring. Besides, the Let-'Em-Play-Anytime Golf Course down the street lets them play through the winter, and they don't lose any grass during the summer. Anyway, we only have a few groups that play much during the winter. How much damage can we do?"

Winter play can do an inordinate amount of damage to the health and playability of the greens in relation to the number of rounds. Every golf course considering winter play should question whether or not it is worth the risk of damaging the greens and affecting their playability for a significant period of the regular seasonably allowing a relatively small percentage of the club's golfers to use them at that time. In the view of most golf course superintendents, turfgrass scientists, and agronomists, it is not. Unfortunately, even the considered opinion of the experts is unlikely to separate winter play from politics and religion as a topic of controversy among golfers.

October Mowing

 

The following article was published by the University of Nebraska and provides tips about maintaining your lawn this fall and preparing it for winter. I thought it could help you all as our growing season comes to an end.

Many people ask how long to continue mowing into the fall. The answer is to keep mowing as long as the grass continues to grow, which is normally into late October or early November. Frequency of mowing can decrease, but continue to mow regularly into the fall. Avoid the urge to set the mower down and scalp your lawn for the final mowing. In years past, publications have recommended mowing low late in the fall. About the only advantage to this is that the tree leaves will blow from your lawn into the neighbor's lawn. Agronomically, mowing your lawn low in the last mowing should be avoided because photosynthesis is occurring deep into the fall, well beyond your last mowing. The higher the photosynthesis, the more energy a grass plant will store for winter and next spring, and the healthier the will be next year. Mowing off too much leaf area reduces photosynthetic capacity of a plant, reducing energy storage, and decreasing turf performance next summer. Regular mowing into the fall is also helpful to mulch tree leaves into the lawn, which research has shown to be beneficial
(http://turf.unl.edu/pdfctarticles/Octmulchtreeleaves.pdf). Continue mowing at your regular height until the grass stops growing in the late fall, since unmowed tall grass can encourage snow mold in rare years.

Zac Reicher, Professor, Turfgrass Science, zreicher2@unl.edu

Heat Taking a Toll on Golf Turf

Heat taking a toll on golf turf
July 21, 2012

Though golf turf is still performing fairly well in spite of heat and drought, cool-season turfgrasses simply cannot survive the extended heat. As one local superintendent quoted, ”Temperatures like this is why they grow zoysia just an hour or two south of here.” The reason cool-season grasses cannot survive extended heat is physiological. Cool-season grasses reach maximum photosynthesis near 75F air temperature and drop off sharply at higher temperatures. Conversely, respiration or energy consumption of cool season grasses increases with rising temperatures. At elevated temperatures, cool-season plants are in energy deficit where they are using more energy in respiration to stay alive than they are producing in photosynthesis. All grasses can survive this energy imbalance for a given period by using carbohydrate storage accumulated earlier in the year when photosynthesis
was higher than respiration.

How long they will survive this energy imbalance is complex and depends on many issues such as duration of elevated temperatures, frequency of cool nights, species, cultivar, previous maintenance, mowing height, traffic, etc. Often when these plants are weakened, it takes one small stress to put the plant over the edge or the proverbial straw that breaks the camel’s back. Small stresses include slight drought stress, minor disease, traffic, a light dusting of topdressing, insect feeding, etc. The bright spot this year for golf courses is the drought and relatively low humidity has limited most of the damaging diseases and allowed superintendents to manage irrigation to keep turf dry. Annual bluegrass is the weakest turf species during the summer, and is always the first to die. Annual bluegrass on golf courses is currently yellowing and I’d expect it to start to thin and die in the very near future given the current forecast of the next four days above 100F in eastern NE. Fungicides and previous applications of trinexapac may help delay the decline, but it is difficult to avoid the inevitable thinning of annual bluegrass in a year like this. Perennial ryegrass on tees and fairways can also be one of the weaker species, and weakening from the heat is often exaggerated by pythium, brown patch, or potentially gray leaf spot. Fungicides may be effective at preventing widespread damage on perennial ryegrass.

As mentioned in a previous Turf iNfo (http://turf.unl.edu/pdfctarticles/juneheat.pdf), following are practices to minimize stress on golf turf:

• Continue to manage irrigation to keep turf as dry as possible while staying away from drought stress. This will maximize soil oxygen to maintain roots, while also providing ample soil water so the plant can cool itself.
• Syringe annual bluegrass in middle of the day. This works on turf with compromised root systems (annual bluegrass, seedlings of other grasses, or turf affected by white grubs or summer patch.
• Continue preventative fungicides to minimize additional stress.
• Roll greens whenever practical to maintain speed instead of mowing. Continue mowing as needed, but be sure turf is well-watered to insure no extra damage.
• The drought will concentrate egg-laying of masked chafers and/or Japanese beetles to irrigated turf areas.
• Watch for breaks in your insecticide applications.
• Switch to solid rollers instead of grooved rollers on all reel-type mowers.
• Aerify as needed with solid narrow tines to increase water and air movement. Insure the areas are wellwatered prior and consider this during cloud cover or in the cooler parts of the day.

Zac Reicher, Professor of Turfgrass Science, zreicher2@unl.edu, turf.unl.edu

Kentucky Bluegrass

How long will Kentucky bluegrass or tall fescue survive when dormant?
July 21, 2012

The most common question we are answering now is about how long lawns can go without watering and still survive. Either because of drought or perhaps to conserve water, cool-season grasses can be allowed to go dormant in extended droughts. Once Kentucky bluegrass (KBG) goes fully dormant from drought, the rule of thumb is to water ¼” of water about every four weeks to keep the crowns hydrated and to help insure survival. Upon return of cooler temperatures and increased rain/irrigation, KBG should regreen with only minimal thinning assuming no traffic during dormancy. Traffic during dormancy may damage crowns and increase thinning upon recovery. Excess heat that we are experiencing should likely not significantly affect KBG during dormancy.

Turf-type tall fescue (TTF) will go dormant much later than KBG under similar conditions. This is because TTF is deeper-rooted than KBG and accesses water deeper in the profile. Tall fescue actually uses significantly more water than KBG. Tall fescue has poorer drought survival than KBG and thus we usually recommend to irrigate often enough to prevent tall fescue from going into complete dormancy. Given the extremely dry conditions, it’s likely impossible to prevent dormancy in TTF. Therefore, we recommend applying ¼” of water every two to three weeks trying to limit damage during dormancy. We’re still unsure how well TTF will survive in summers like this, but the
expanding acreage of TTF use over the last few years will give us a better idea after this summer.

Regardless of the species, keep all traffic (including mowing) off dormant areas. Even foot traffic will potentially damage the crowns and decrease survival.

Zac Reicher, Professor of Turfgrass Science, zreicher2@unl.edu, turf.unl.edu

Syringing Turf

Those of you who have dared the heat to play golf over the last week have surely noticed all of the watering taking place in the afternoons. This process is known as syringing where we apply small rates of water to help cool the turf canopy.

On our greens, the process is performed by hand with hoses. Unfortunately, due to the size of the fairways we are unable to perform this process by hand. Instead, we employ the overhead irrigation system. We try to run each head between 6-9 minutes, depending on the environmental conditions of the area. This process usually takes place between 2:00 p.m. and 5:00 p.m. when daytime temperatures are at their peak points. While it is easy to get carried away with the amount of water applied,  the most important thing to keep in mind is too much water is far worse than too little. Apply too much water during the heat of the day and wet wilt becomes an issue.

Many golfers have asked me if I understand that large portions of the water being applied are being lost to evaportation. Evaporation is exactly what we want to happen. The process of evaporation is an endothermic reaction which is a chemical reaction that absorbs heat from its environment. In order for the applied water to evaporate, it must first absorb heat from the leaf blade and turf canopy. This absorbtion of heat provides a cooling effect much like the cooling effect we feel when sweat evaporates from our skin.

Unfortunately in the heat we are experiencing, the cooling effects don't last long which makes multiple syringe cycles a reality. This forces us to run water while golf is going on and I understand that can be a hassle. I thank you all for your patience while we try and survive this weather.

A syringe cycle on 4 Black Bird Fairway



July 13th Weather

Current Conditions: 6:15am
It is currently overcast and 76 degrees. Winds are calm. Humidity levels are around 78%.

Forecast:
Expect mostly sunny conditions with highs in the mid 90's. South winds should remain light throughout the day. There is a very slim chance of precipitation during the afternoon hours.

July 12th Weather

Current Conditions: 5:45am
It is currently mostly clear and 62 degrees. Winds are calm. Humidity levels are around 90%.

Forecast:
The heat will start creeping in today and stick around for the foreseeable future. Expect sunny conditions with a high in the lower 90's. South winds should remain very light. There is a very slim chance of showers during the overnight.

July 11th Weather

Current Conditions: 7:15am
It is currently mostly sunny and 64 degrees. Winds are calm. Humidity levels are around 80%.

Forecast:
Expect sunny conditions with temps approaching 90. Southeast winds will blow around 5 mph.
This will be the last relatively cool day for the a while. Temps are expected to rise over the next 7 days and there is no real sign of precipitation for a while.

July 10th Weather

Current Conditions: 8:30am
It is currently sunny and 73 degrees. North winds are blowing around 3 mph. Humidity levels are a comfortable 57%.

Forecast:
Expect sunny conditions with temps approaching 90 degrees. Northwest winds should remain light blowing around 5-7 mph.

July 9th Weather

Current Conditions: 7:00am
It is currently sunny and 71 degrees. North winds are light. Humidity levels are around 71%. It feels great outside this morning.

Forecast:
Expect mostly sunny conditions with temps in the mid 80's. North winds will pick up just a bit blowing around 9 mph. Should be a great day.

July 6th Weather

Current Conditions: 6:00am
Currently it is sunny and 73 degrees. Winds are calm. Humidity levels are around 81%.

Forecast:
The last day of this extended heat wave might be the worst of them all. Expect sunny conditions with highs in the low 100's. Heat index values will easily surpass the 100 degree mark. Southwest winds should reach speeds of 20 mph.

July 4th Weather

Current Conditions: 8:00am
Currently it is sunny and 87 degrees. South winds have picked up and are blowing between 13 and 20 mph. Humidity levels are bearable at 47%.
Forecast:
Expect sunny and hot conditions with highs approaching 100 degrees. Winds should remain similar to their current conditions.

July 3rd Weather

Current Conditions: 6:15am
It is currently sunny and 76 degrees. East winds are light around 3 mph. Humidity levels are around 76%.

Forecast:
Expect sunny and hot conditions with temps approaching 100 degrees. Heat index values could easily exceed 100 this afternoon. South winds will pick up speed through out the day reaching 13 mph. The next three days will be a repeat of this one so brace yourself.

July 2nd Weather

Current Conditions: 6:15am
Currently it is sunny and 72 degrees. Southeast winds are light at around 5 mph. Humidity levels are close to 85%.

Forecast:
Expect sunny skies with a high in the mid 90's. Southwest winds will pick up to between 8 and 15 mph, with gusts exceeding 20 mph.

June 29th Weather

Current Conditions: 6:30am
It is currently overcast and 75 degrees. Southeast winds are light gusting up to 9 mph. We had just under .7" of rain this morning forcing us to keep carts on paths for a while.

Forecast:
Expect cloudy conditions early eventually clearing this afternoon. Temperatures will reach the mid 90's with heat index values approaching 105. South winds should remain light around 7 mph.